Madeira
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Madeira: steep roads, epic views, and where to stay
If you’re embracing island life during your sabbatical, make sure Madeira is on your list. Known for its lush landscapes, dramatic cliffs, and (very) steep roads, this Portuguese island is a dream for nature lovers and hikers alike.
A Windy Arrival
Flying into Funchal Airport—officially Aeroporto Internacional da Madeira Cristiano Ronaldo—sets the tone for your adventure. Located in the Atlantic Ocean, Madeira greets you with views of deep blue waters and soaring cliffs. Fair warning: due to wind conditions, your pilot might need more than one try to land. Don’t worry—this is standard procedure, and it’s the safest way to land on one of Europe’s trickiest runways.
Driving in Madeira: Tips from the Top
To really explore Madeira’s hidden gems, renting a car is highly recommended. From Funchal, you can reach almost any corner of the island in 1 to 1.5 hours. But a word of advice: the roads are famously steep, narrow, and winding. If you’re not confident driving a manual (especially uphill), do yourself a favour and book an automatic.
Skip the temptation of renting a big SUV. Bigger cars don’t offer more stability, and they’ll only make parking harder—especially in tight hotel garages or popular trailheads. A smaller automatic will give you all the freedom without the stress.
Hiking Heaven
Madeira is made for hiking. Its official trails are labelled “PR” followed by a number (like PR1, PR6, etc.). Some of the most famous include PR1 – Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and PR6 – Levada das 25 Fontes, but there are plenty of quieter trails that are just as stunning.
Before heading out, always check the official Madeira hiking website: visitmadeira.com
Trails can close unexpectedly due to rainfall or maintenance, and you don’t want to arrive at a trailhead only to turn back.
Pro tip: Trail parking lots can fill up fast, even 8 or 9 a.m. can be too late. Consider starting earlier (hello, sunrise hike!) or using alternative starting points. Some people park a little further away and walk in.
Best time of year to visit
Best weather conditions between April and October
Nature
Boa Ventura: tranquil hillside views on Madeira’s north coast
On the island’s north coast, the little town of Boaventura offers a slower pace and sweeping hilltop views.
Stay at Solar da Boaventura
This is a cosy traditional-style hotel with simple rooms and a wellness area that includes a small indoor pool and sauna (available for a fee).
Where to eat
To be fair, this might not be the culinary highlight of Madeira. You can choose to dine at the hotel, where you might be surprised to enjoy the local fish with banana, a surprisingly delicious dish. Otherwise, drive down to Restaurante São Cristóvão for a beautiful view on the cliffs and the ocean and some solid meal choices. Taking some groceries with you to Boa Ventura might be a safe bet if you are looking to hike in the area and wish to pack a picnic.
What to do
Caminho da Entrosa – an amazing hike where you can walk a dramatic cliff path (fully secured and accessible to most levels) overlooking the ocean
City
Funchal: Madeira’s capital, perfect for lively evenings
Funchal, the island’s lively capital, is a great base if you want to explore the island by day and come back to a vibrant city in the evening. Stay just outside the busy centre and you’ll get the best of both worlds.
Stay at Hotel Quintinha São João & Spa
A boutique-style stay with large rooms, a peaceful atmosphere, and great amenities. You’ll find an indoor and outdoor pool, a small gym, and a sauna (free but by reservation). Breakfast here is a real treat—fresh local fruits and à la carte options every morning.
Stay at The Views Baía
Located right next door to Hotel Quintinha São João, The Views Baía is a larger, more resort-style hotel. Expect a generous breakfast buffet, a panoramic pool, and one of the best spa areas in Funchal. The views over the city are incredible, especially at sunset.
Both hotels are perched slightly uphill, meaning you can walk into town (if you’re up for a leg day) or take a Bolt—the local ride-hailing app—to dinner and drinks in the old town. Staying here means you’re close to popular areas, but far enough to enjoy peace and quiet when you’re ready to relax.
Where to eat
Art Food Corner – a stylish café close to the old town, perfect for a relaxed lunch or a coffee stop with creative, beautifully presented dishes
Kampo – modern dining by chef Júlio Pereira, where the focus is on high-quality meat dishes in a sleek, contemporary setting
Akua – Kampo’s sister restaurant, located near the marina, specializing in fresh fish and seafood with inventive Madeiran twists (choose either Kampo or Akua)
Barreirinha Bar Café – perched above the ocean with a laid-back vibe, this is an absolute favorite for sunset drinks and casual bites
Vegan World – a fully vegan restaurant in the city center offering hearty, colorful plates
Where to drink
GPoint – lively and fun, especially on Friday nights when karaoke night takes over. This bar is a bit out of the city center but worth it for karaoke night
Rei da Poncha – the go-to spot to try Madeira’s traditional drink, poncha, mixed fresh at the counter
Barreirinha Bar Café – not just for food, this oceanside spot is also perfect for delicious drinks with a sunset view
What to do
Funchal has plenty to explore, from nature walks to cultural stops and relaxed afternoons by the sea
Hiking – Take your car or a local bus to all the walking trails and levadas (water channels) that Madeira has to offer. They’re one of the most unique ways to explore Madeira’s landscapes
Zona Velha – The old town (Zona Velha) is full of cobbled streets, painted doors, and small cafés. Take a walk through this neighborhood and walk along the ocean on your way back to also see the harbor.
Mercado dos Lavradores – A bustling local market where you can taste exotic tropical fruits, admire the flower stalls, and see the day’s fresh fish being brought in.
CR7 Museum – If you’re a football fan, this museum on the waterfront is all about Cristiano Ronaldo, Madeira’s most famous export.
Nature
Santo António da Serra: peaceful mountain vibes
Heading east, Santo António da Serra is best known for its golf course and peaceful mountain vibe.
Stay at Enotel Golf – Santo da Serra
This hotel offers a more luxurious stay, with spacious rooms, a generous breakfast buffet, and wellness facilities—all included, no reservations needed. Just know that getting there involves some seriously steep inclines (up to 15%), so be prepared for a fun drive up!
Where to eat
Ponto Alto Café – a nice place only a short walk away from Enotel Santo da Serra (that even offers vegan pizza)
Enotel Santo da Serra – the hotel itself also offers a dinner buffet, perfect if you are taking this stay to fully immerse yourself in spa and relaxation mode
What to do
Drive down to Praia da Machico – to enjoy one of Madeira’s few sandy beaches
Hike the surroundings of Santo da Serra – there are some great trails through the forests in which Santo da Serra lies.
Nature
Bonus destinations: worth the drive
There’s no way to see all of Madeira in one visit—but that’s part of the charm. If your sabbatical allows a bit of extra time, consider extending your stay to include:
Porto Moniz – For its volcanic natural swimming pools and wild coastal beauty.
Seixal – A local favourite due to its excellent natural pools perfect for a dip.
Caniçal & Ponta de São Lourenço – Hike to the island’s easternmost point on a narrow, windswept peninsula with stunning views.
